License to Steal / National Wine Marketing Conference

Last year, I attended License to Steal, a national conference for marketing wines and wineries from non-traditional areas of the United States. It was a fascinating experience both from the diversity of wines I got to try as well as the difference in mindset from my own, a theme I will explore in depth later. Since tasting notes are my usual schtick, today I will highlight the best and most interesting wines I tried this year.

 

The real stand-out wine was top red from the Ohio vs Michigan Wine Clash 2009 , 2 Lads Cabernet Franc Reserve 2007 (Old Mission Peninsula, MI). Since tasting it last in during the Clash, the wine has grown in stature with deeper strains of dark fruit, a nicely-rounded body and an overall integration. Lurking power and a perfumed-finish. Several people commented to me on the wine and the bottle emptied quite quickly. This wine makes a case to be one of the best bottles of wine I have ever had from non-traditional states and would not be way down the list on the best young domestic wines I’ve had. 2 LadsWinery

 

Last year, one of my favorites was Alamosa Cellars 2004 El Guapo, a Tempranillo from the Texas Hill Country. This year, I used the power of Twitter to make sure they were bringing it again and I was glad for a chance to re-taste. I am happy to report that I liked it again. A lot. A year has taken off the oak notes (which were correct and balanced before - “well into being absorbed” was my statement last year and born out) and added some nice earthy funk. Orange-peel tinged fruit receded even more. Lots of brick, leather and other great non-fruit playing a central role. Good stuff. Their Alamosa Cellars Tio Pancho Syrah 2005 was  noteworthy enough to merit inclusion in my top wines. The white Rhone blend Alamosa Cellars Scissortail 2007 was also of merit. More acidic than typical of the varieties (not a bad thing) and some florals. Alamosa Wine Cellars.

Idaho has a fascinating agricultural environment across the board, but I am really intrigued by both the idea and the actuality of wines coming out of there. The incredible volcanic-tortured soils of the area just have to be able to produce something unique and special. What remains is to see exactly what and – the tough part – how.

A big special shout-out from the design-side of my mind to Cinder Wines for the hands-down best bottle design. For my tastes, the Cinder Wines Syrah 2008 (Snake River Valley, ID) was too modern in style with extracted-plush fruit and too much oak. While the latter is correctable, the former may very well be exactly correct for the terroir and climate. That said, the wine was well-made and could well-absorb the treatment. While in the style of big Shiraz/Syrah, it exceeds most. Excited to see where this wine and winery go. Cinder Wines.

 

Also props to Vale Wines Riesling 2008 (Snake River Valley, ID). It was not so superlative as to warrant special notice last year, but it captured my attention for of the same nice quality with crisp, transparent fruit again this year. (Yes, I did have my notes from last year to which to refer.) Vale Wine Co.

My surprise pick of the year – Summerset Winery Caba Moch (IA). This unique blend of Catawba and Marechal Foch was a nice, slightly sweet rosé which was made pleasant by a nice acidic spine (the Foch, I suspect). Definite pink apple juice qualities and not a “fine wine,” but I have to respect the bead this wine held and the quality. Summerset Winery.

Red Newt Cellars Gewurztraminer Sawmill Creek Vineyard 2007 (Finger Lakes, NY) was a very nice example of the variety. It both played off the bitter/spicy of the variety with a nice orange-peel finish and a solid structure. (My peep Lenn Thompson of the New York Cork report has also given this 4/5 stars.) Red Newt Cellars.

Finally, the King Family Meritage 2007 (Monticello, VA) affirmed my appreciation for Virginia wines. Just a solid Meritage with structure, nuts and properly moving fruit. This wine won the VA Governor’s Cup in 2010. King Family Vineyards.